Halla-san (한라산)
At 1,950 feet Halla-san is probably the most amazing land formation in the entire country. It is a gigantic shield volcano that sits in the center of Jeju-do, and essentially makes up the entire island. With a volcanic crater at its peak and the trail to the summit composed of big portions of lava rock, misty clouds floating about, and a unique weather system that swirls around the roads leading up it, this place is nothing short of enchanting.I had ventured once to Halla-san once before a few years back, but due to ignorance of the trails did not actually make it to Halla-san's true peak, only to the Wissaeoreum(윗세오름) peak.
This time I knew things would be different. Rather than only allocating a long weekend, my girlfriend and I packed our bags to make this journey during Chuseok. In an attempt to enliven the adventure, and save on the logistics of transportation we made the decision to ride my motorcycle for the length of the journey... Yea, we rode with the two of us plus probably 30+ kilos of camping gear on my puny tapped-out 250cc Hyosung Comet from Gangnam in Seoul all the way to Jeju. I had actually done this solo before on my previous trip to Jeju. So I was prepared for both the hardship and awe of this journey over land and sea...
We started on our first day leaving quite a bit later than we would have liked. We had some issues getting everything in order, and with my girlfriend being susceptible to getting stressed out from this kind of thing it couldn't be helped. In fact we actually set off just past sunset; rode off into the night with only a couple of blankets, a tent, and a pair of saddle bags carefully packed with all the things we reckoned would be needed for this week-long expedition. At the outset, the late departure was soon met with unfavorable weather conditions. With less than 200 kilometers between us and Seoul the skies opened and rapidly progressed from a few raindrops to a proper downpour. In the brief time period of about 10 minutes from when the storm began, I located an underpass to allow us a little refuge while we made plans for our next move.
After briefly musing at the idea of setting up our tent under the bridge for the night, we began the more practical steps of wrapping our luggage in plastic bags to keep it from getting wet. We decided it would be best to go back down the road a ways to find ourselves a motel for the night. Of course as Murphy's law would have it, it was another 10 kilometers or so of solid rain until we managed to find acceptable accommodation for the night. It was certainly a good thing we decided on looking for a hotel despite the rain, because come morning things hadn't really changed. It was raining steadily, and with our morale... umm... dampened, we were forced to set off into a rainstorm mid-morning.
From here on things began to go more according to our plans. By noon the rain had stopped, and we made it to our destination (the ferry terminal at Wando(원도)) with only about 30 minutes to spare. After the requisite red-tape involved to get our tickets purchased (for both ourselves and the bike) we loaded the motorcycle onto the ferry and were soon aboard the ferry for it's 5 O'clock-ish departure.
It was a beautiful place, sculpted almost entirely out of quality wood that I could only imagine was extremely expensive, especially in Korea. The hostel was alive with friendly occupants for the night, many of whom were merrily amused at the novelty of having a waygook motorcycling couple around. After a cup of coffee and light conversation with the proprietor, the unfortunate truth emerged that in fact the hostel was full up for the night. Not even our Korean friend could find a solo bunk for himself. So after a little deliberation, and assistance from my girlfriend. We managed to get in contact with Tipi and Chae, two lovely women who Fee was aware of due to their hospitality in helping a couple of other traveling waygook who happened to be riding in Jeju. Apparently our Korean acquaintance was also friends with them. At an impolitely late hour we arrived and were warmly received with some snacks and a room that we were lent for the night. A few gifts were exchanged, a little bit of American jerky here, some Kimchi there, and soon we were on the road again.
Wholly unsatisfied I demanded another go at it, Fee was understanding. Or maybe just accepting of my bullish determination I know not which. Either way the next day would have been deja-vu had it not been that we actually made the Sunrise Peak in time! (a calming, magical experience made a little less so by loud tourists who all seemed to be following the same travel guide). Pushing on through a meager breakfast of Dunkin Donuts. We went for Halla-san again shortly after, packing a couple of sports drinks to stay hydrated, and some meager provisions to keep energy up. After a few breaks for rest we managed to make it to the summit. It was quite the gratifying experience, but this was a high point in more ways that one... it was downhill from there.
Fee had managed to injure her knee amidst all of the exertion. This slowed our decent pace for sure, but would also prove to be a problem in the future. The problem at the moment however was that we needed to leave the island immediately after our return in order to make it home in time. The trip back to Seoul was deserving of a story in and of itself, involving a mad dash for the ferry that ended up snapping the frame of my poor motorcycle and then involving a few flights, one week, 100k worth of parts, a sympathetic but dickish owner of a scooter shop, and then another mad dash over a mountain in the middle of another rainstorm with no headlight. Sadly that madness belongs to another story.
Seorak-san (서락산)
A few months later, Fee and I found ourselves with a long weekend at our disposal. Hiking Seorak-san was on the tip of both our tongues, despite a knee injury which she picked up on the ascent of Sunset Peak, she and I both were keen on the idea. This however was to be quite different than our trip to Jeju. As the inaugural journey on my newly purchased Honda CB400 and a much shorter trip, we packed much less. Opting to stay in a cheap motel for a couple of days seemed (correctly) to just be an easier way of going about things.We left decently early in the morning. This trip was the typical slog across the country covering many kilometers. We were used to it, sorta. The temperature was really starting to drop however as we ascended into the beautiful Taebeak mountain range. Route 6 through this area is probably one of my most favorite roads in Korea. Home to many smoothly paved and banked corners, in addition to some breathtaking views amidst the wind-farms, Route 6 is a road that is massively rewarding no matter how leisurely, aggressively, or ham-fistedly you want to approach it.
Similarly to Halla-san our descent was slower. I started feeling weak legged, and my offers to carry Fee to speed things up became few and far in between. Fee herself, slowly but not unexpectedly, felt the return of the injury she suffered on Halla-san. The elation of reaching the summit soon left us while trudging back to the start. We got back just past dusk and I would hazard to say that despite the exhaustion, spirits were quite a bit higher than they had been before the climb.
Jiri-san (지리산)
There was to be no more climbing of mountains for the rest of the year. With the cold weather approaching, riding a motorcycle out to these notably cooler places wasn't really a good option. But with the last peak being an itch in our minds we were set to complete this last hike sometime in the spring/summer of 2014.We had both changed jobs by this point, but still managed to find time off for this. The event was initially a South African Braai. A sort of barbecue event that is taken more seriously in Mzansi than it ever would be by the average Migookin in America. It just so happened that this one Fee wanted to attend was situated in Jirisan National Park. So in an effort to consolidate activities, we decided to both go to the barbecue and attempt climbing Jirisan in the same weekend. An adventure both hedonistic and physically challenging to be sure.
We arrived midday in Namwon(남원), the closest town to the west side of the park. We chose this due to its size (guaranteeing it would have a cheap motel), and proximity to both locations we were heading to. Still given the distance from Seoul, this being closer was also a deciding factor. We needed some rest, and the aircon and ice creams we got from our motel and a local minimart gave us just that. At least it was enough to encourage us to press on to the barbecue, located in the middle of the mountains.
Rousing Fee, and even myself, proved to be quite an effort. Add to this that the trail to the summit of Jiri-san was quite the distance away, thus it came to pass that we didn't begin our hike until 12:00 or so. As we had fallen afoul of turnaround times enforced on Korea's mountains before, I was quite wary of the possibility of failure and increased our pace as much as I could (with Fee nearly cursing me for this). However, the persistence paid off and we managed to make it past the cutoff with nigh on 10 minutes to spare. Resting no more than 15 meters past this point we tucked into the last of our provisions before continuing our ascent.
After all the dust settled from our ordeal Fee was still practically in shock the next day. In fact it would be a number of weeks before the pain in her knee went away and we got back into running regularly. Despite our misgivings from the many difficulties encountered in our adventures, it always sits close to the heart. As evidenced by how Fee trotted up to me recently and remarked "we should go climb a mountain".
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